Wave Knowledge

     Surf sages keep telling me that I need more "wave knowledge."  So I do the surfer stare at the horizon now to learn how large the distant dark lines (approaching swells) become when they approach the beach.  Today I needed to get an "A" for correct surf entry timing, because the swells were building and would soon make the surf impassable for me.
     My timing was almost right the first time that I tried to pass through the surf.  Unfortunately,  the next set of waves caught me in a "no win" position.  I tried to ram the first wave to no avail!

     My second attempt to get through the surf went well. 

     As I paddled along the Leucadia/Encinitas shore, I loved watching the huge sets of waves blow passed the large school of black-wetsuited surfers at Beacons Beach.  The majority of them were waiting for a better wave, but a few would pop up and ride high on the lip of the good wave that they were given. 

    The surf just kept growing while I was paddling, so I cautiously kayak surfed in to Ponto Beach.